Washer Water Supply and Plumbing – Sewing Machines Los Angeles

Water supply requirements for most washers include threaded faucets on both the hot and cold water lines. These faucets must be within 5 ft of the water inlet on the back of the washer. It is recommended that both the hot and cold water supply lines be provided with risers. These short lengths of capped pipe rise vertically from the supply line to provide a cushion of trapped air. This cushion of air absorbs the surge of water that occurs when the inlet valve closes suddenly. This absorptive action prevents “water hammer” and possible damage to the water inlet valve.

Most automatic washers need a so-called “water receptacle” to furnish a vacuum break for incoming water supply. The vacuum break is required by underwriters and many local plumbing codes. Water is directed to the receptacle from the mixing valve through a hose which is usually secured to the rear of the cabinet wrapper by clamps. The water from the hose passes through a nozzle in the receptacle top and is connected to the inlet flume hose at the bottom of the receptacle. In case of breakage the receptacle is usually replaced as a complete assembly rather than by individual parts.

A minimum dynamic pressure of 20 lb/in sq and a maximum dynamic pressure of 120 lb/in sq is recommended for the best operation. P pressure-reduction valve should be used in the washer supply line where inlet pressure entering the building exceeds 12 lb/in sq to prevent damage to the machine mixing valve. If pressures are below 20 lb/in sq, a long fill time and poor spray rinse action may be evident with the appliance. Problems of leaking water valves may also occur since water pressure is used to close the washer supply valves.

A convenient method of checking water pressure is with a water pressure gauge. Connect gauge to a Y fitting on the faucet with the gauge attached to one side of the Y and the washer fill hose to the other side. Read pressure while the washer is filling to obtain a stable dynamic reading.

For best washing results, the water heater should provide water to the washer at 140 to 160F. In some cycles as much as 30 gal of hot water is required per load. This is the entire storage capacity of a 30-gal hot water heater; therefore, it is imperative as an absolute minimum that a 30-gal, quick-recovery gas heater or a 50-gal, quick-recovery electrical heater be used.

Most water heaters have an adjustable thermostat located on the side of the heater or behind a cover plate. It provides a wide range of water temperature selection for the user. In order to obtain the recommended washer temperature of 140 to 160F, it may be necessary to turn up the thermostat at the water heater.

When adjusting hot water heater temperature, keep in mind the heat loss through the water lines. An unprotected water line can lose as much as 1F for every foot of pipe. As an example, a water heater set at 140F and located 30 ft from the washer will only supply 110F water temperature at the washer. To get 140F water to the washer, the heater would have to be Set to 170F.

Insulating the exposed water line between the water heater and the washer will prevent most of the temperature loss. Insulation is the best answer to a low-temperature problem. High water temperatures at the water tank may produce excessive temperatures elsewhere in the home. Excessive temperatures are to be avoided in the bathroom and kitchen areas where small children may be exposed to hot water.

Drainage systems: Washer water outlet facilities may be a laundry tube, standpipe, or a floor drain. The size of the tub required for disposal purposes will depend on the rated load capacity of the washer. For example, at a high water level setting, a 14-lb automatic washer will use about 18 gal in the washer cycle. The 18-lb model will use about 25 gal water at a high-water level setting in the washer cycle. It is obvious, then, that a 20-gal laundry tub would not hold the water from an 18-lb automatic washer. In fact, for some suds-return models, a laundry tub with double compartments is needed, each compartment having a capacity of 20 gal.

Regardless of the style or capacity of the tub or drain, it must be installed to provide proper drainage for the washer drain hoses. The drain hose must discharge at a minimum height of 30 to 34 in (depending on the model and style, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, etc.) and not, as a rule, exceeding 72 in. If the minimum height is less than 30 to 34 in, the water may possibly not be pumped out during the drain portion of the washer cycle.

Take care not to exceed the length of drain hoses provided with each washing machine. Excessive drain hose length only invites problems, the most common being hose “sag” which can lead to kinking or siphoning. Use one siphon kit for each 10 ft of hose. Support the hose with hangers, and exercise care to avoid a kink in the washer hose which may restrict draining.