The Magic of Serger Stitches: The Chain Stitch – Sewing Machines Los Angeles

If you are lucky enough to have a serger or overlocker that can create a chain stitch, you can have all sorts of fun. The chain stitch is unique as well as very versatile. You can baste, gather ruffles, decorate fabric, quilt, put on binding, make belt loops, make spaghetti bias, and create other decorative embellishments.

A serger chain stitch is formed by only two threads. At its simplest, it can be used to sew a seam, just as you would a straight stitch on a sewing machine. It can also be used this way for basting because it is very simple to remove. To remove a chain stitch, cut the thread tails close to the edge of the fabric at the end of the seam, where the last stitches were formed. Separate the needle thread from the looper thread, and pull the needle thread. If the threads are separated correctly, they will fall away easily. If they get stuck, give them a firmer tug to pull them apart. If they do not start pulling apart easily, either you are at the wrong end of the seam or they have not been fully separated from each other.

Because these threads come apart so easily, be sure to either sew across the ends of a chain stitched seam with other stitching or tie a knot in the threads and bury them in the project with a sharp needle. Do not just allow the ends to hang loose or get cut too short.

Chain stitches can also be used for gathering when you want the gathering stitches to be placed in from the edge of the fabric. Lengthen your stitch and move the differential feed up to a higher number for gathering. You may also want to play with the looper and needle tensions to get the gathering ratio you want.

Often a heavier thread can be placed in the lower looper for a decorative effect. Stitch with the wrong side of the fabric up, so the chain looper thread will decorate the right side of the fabric. Serge all over the fabric with straight lines, wavy lines, grids, or any other arrangement that pleases you. You can quilt decoratively by chain stitching on a quilt sandwich (two piece of fabric with a piece of batting between them). For decorative chain stitching, stitch on a piece of fabric that is larger than the final piece should be, then trim it down to size, in order to have neat edges.

Binding, belt loops, narrow bias and other embellishments require the chain stitch in combination with specialized attachments for your serger. Check your serger manual for specific directions for these techniques, as they are serger-specific.

Chain stitches come out so easily that mistakes are not a concern, as they are simple to fix. Play. Experiment. Chain stitching can be addictive and once you start, you will look for new ways to use your fun stitch.